One of Southern France's most exciting natural and biodynamic wineries, overseen by winemaker Gérard Gauby, who found these abandoned vines in the late 1990s. This extended-skin contact blend of Vermentino and Macabeo is from 20-to-24-year-old vines on decomposed granite and gneiss, around 500 m altitude in the Fenouillèdes region (the French word for fennel). This is macerated on skins for 15 days before pressing and native fermented, spending a year in oak before bottling unfined and unfiltered. A dusky orange hue, this firm wine is edgy with tangerine pith, bergamot and, aptly, wild fennel. There's a lovely wisp of citrus oil perfumes and a heightened, almost nervous acidity to lift, but this wine is led and structured through the grippy tannins. Haunting mineral salts and a wild scrubby mint linger on the lingering finish.
This wine is made by the son of founders/owners Catherine and Pierre Brenton, organic champions who farm 11 hectares of vines just east of Bourgueil in the village of Restigné. Their eldest 20-something son Paul has joined the generations and made this singular Chenin from the tiny lieu-dit of Pierre Rousses in Vouvray, named for the red rocks covering the surface of the limestone undercover. Give this ample airtime to allow the exceptional layers of crushed stone, earthy pear, wild clover, key lime, honeysuckle, white pepper, ample crushed sea salts, to emerge and pulse along the confidently lackadaisical palate. After native fermentation in 1-to-2-year-old barrique, this ages in barrique for 7 months, sans MLF.
Domaine Rolet was founded in the 1940s and has remained family run ever since. With 58 hectares of vines in Arbois, Côte du Jura and L’Etoile, they are the second largest wine growing estate in Jura, working only with estate fruit. Unlike many Jura whites, L’Etoile Chardonnay was fermented in barrique, where it aged for over a year. There is a swell of flint and wood upon opening, yielding to allow the crisp and mineral white to emerge. Tight white fruit, white florals, light hazelnuts, meadow grass, dried green apples and a hum of stones, this is reminiscent of Chablis (their soils are similarly studded with marine fossils). Amplify the slight earthiness woven through here with brown buttered scallops or potent Gruyère.
First tasted a year ago, this wine has mellowed slightly but without losing too much freshness. Opens with fresh citrus on the nose with the same theme carrying through on the medium weight palate. It is smoothly textured with good overall balance and a clean fresh finish. A well-made, straightforward wine.
Botrytised Chenin from hillside clay and gravels was aged in oak casks for 1 year, yielding this off-dry wine. Honeysuckle, beeswax, ripe pear, riper quince, with evident botrytis savouriness throughout. The waxy palate easily carries the ripe weight through the lingering, white pepper spiced finish. Let this warm up to cellar temperature (and beyond) to fully enjoy. An unsuspecting, lovely partner to creamy blue cheeses, or crème brûlée.
Very pale. Typical, mineral nose with petrol notes and citrus in an elegant mix. Traces of carbonic gas enlighten the attack marked by a vivid acidity. Light fruity taste in the mid palate followed by a beautifully long ample finish. Drink or hold.
One of the most consistent white Burgundies vintage to vintage. Bright straw in colour with a minerally, green apple and citrus bouquet; medium-bodied, dry and crisp; fresh and lively on the palate with a lemony, green apple flavour and a long finish.