Striking for numerous reasons, initially from the packaging: a cardboard tube that holds this sparkling wine upside down. This is not a gimmick; this traditional method fizz is undisgorged, so the package helps the yeast sediment gather at the neck of the bottle, ready for the consumer to release. If the bottle isn't stored upside down, it needs be inverted for at least an hour to settle all the yeast in the neck. If you haven't disgorged before, and don't want a giant mess, it's best done underwater (Google it for numerous videos showing how). The added step is worth it however, to taste the freshest fizzy Pinot Noir from this 130-year-old vineyard in Brda, Slovenia, just across the Italian border. The estate had been in existence since 1700, and Ales Kristancic has manned the helm for the last few decades. This naturalist property is farmed organically and biodynamically and no inputs are added to the wines. This pours a cloudy peach pink, streams fine bubbles and streaks with lifted acidity. Riotous and pure, with piercing grippy apricot fuzz, peach pit, raspberry bush, wild thyme and light scented cherry blossom floating atop a mineral, iron clad base. Finely textural and grippy. Highly refreshing, authentic and unique, this is a must-buy for those seeking authenticity of place and wine experience.
The Movia estate dates back to 1700, straddling 22 borderland ha of land, about half of which lie on the Italian side of the Goriška Brda (Collio) and the remainder in Slovenia (ZGP Brda). This iconic naturalist producer makes wines of place, not grape. There is a distinct and overt earthy swing to this layered, complexed and characterful Pinot Gris. Some are quick to call "cork" on this, but none is there. There is lots of other stuff to uncover however. Oxidative, sure, and alluringly so, this is harvested later than any contemporaries, wild-fermented in barrique, on lees, without racking, with no additives at all. Light honey, crabapples, honey, Seville orange, broken stones and medicinal, mint-threaded meadow herbs on the tight, textural, lingering and bracing finish. Not an easy wine; wild and unruled, and unapologetically so, yet one I found myself returning to this complete and balanced and interesting wine over 3 evenings in a row, each time uncovering more layers within.