I’ll admit to having a soft spot for the Martell range of cognacs. Founded in 1715, Martell is the oldest of the major cognac houses, but as with the rest of them, is trying to position its spirit in a more modern light, encouraging the use of cognac in mixed drinks. Martell’s latest expression — the VS Single Distillery — is, as the name implies, sourced from a single distilling source. Dark plum, dried apricot, vanilla, citrus, caramel, mild spice, and a whiff of leather. Rich and smooth in the mouth, with up front sweet plum and baking spice flavours trailing off to suggestions of vanilla and toffee. Crafted as a cocktail base, it’s quite enjoyable neat.
While packaging an XO cognac in a test tube slipped into a cigar tube might seem a tad gimmicky, it’s actually a pretty cool idea. The test tube can be reused to hold, well, whatever, and the aluminium tube makes for a great cigar storage/transport device. It also doesn’t hurt that it’s really good cognac to begin with. Rich, complex aromas of toffee, dried stone fruits, browned butter, black cherry, and pipe tobacco. Dark cherries and plums weave around toffee, vanilla, and fruitcake in the mouth. Long, supple, silky and luxurious, with a subtle elegance on the finish. Try with a maduro cigar?
I asked Paul Allamby of Toronto’s Levenswater Gin why he chose to make a potato-based gin (wouldn’t a vodka be the obvious route to follow?). “Because l wanted to create a gin that, at least for me, would represent the complex diversity that we enjoy in our city. Saffron, tellicherry, bergamot, fennel, cubeb, lavender, kaffir lime, blackberry leaves, eucalyptus. There are 34 botanicals layered into this compound gin. I also wanted to not follow the traditions of London Dry Gin and create a vivid palate of flavours and aromatics.” I’d say he succeeded. While its profile might enrage fans of “traditional” gin, it’s like no gin you’ve likely tried. Herbaceous on the nose with hints of amaro, clove, sandalwood, pine resin, liquorice, rosemary and, surprisingly, green Chartreuse. Viscous, herbal and spicy in the mouth, it is a very “un-gin-like-gin.” It’s also an incredibly engaging spirit.
Finished in red wine casks charred to the point of furrows being etched into the wood (hence “grooves”), this limited edition bottling is not for the faint-hearted (but then, no Ardbeg expression really is). As with most Ardbeg numbers, this is a doozy. Iodine, brine, tar, sweet woodsmoke and smoked spices erupt from the glass. Vanilla, caramel corn, and briny/smoked meat flavours are enhanced by hints of cayenne pepper. The finish is sweet/smoky and long, long, long.
Guests attending a Toronto tasting of amazing Sazerac bourbons (Buffalo Trace, 1792 Sweet Wheat, Blanton’s Single Barrel, E.H. Taylor Four Grain), with Buffalo Trace Distillery Master Blender Drew Mayville, got a treat all bourbon lovers would kill for: a taste of Old Rip Van Winkle - one of the world’s most coveted whiskies. Not only that, but the 25 Year Old is the oldest expression yet. Just over 700 bottles were released … worldwide. Even Mayville worried that a wheated bourbon of this age wouldn’t work out. Well, it did. In a rather spectacular fashion. Ripe, nutty caramel, marmalade/orange chocolate, old polished wood, browned butter, some candied banana, worn leather and just a hint of acetate on a nose that reminded me of a fantastic aged rum rather than a whisky. Silky smooth in the mouth, with Christmas cake, exotic spices, and a long, warm, complex finish that I could still taste a full ten minutes after the pour was gone. Pretty unforgettable stuff.
Refined botanicals highlight juniper, coriander and citrus on the nose. On the palate, the spirit is silky smooth with juniper and citrus flavours initially, and spicy coriander with a suggestion of ginger emerging on mid-palate. Finishes with a touch of spirity heat.
Refined botanicals highlight juniper, coriander and citrus on the nose. On the palate, the spirit is silky smooth with juniper and citrus flavours initially, and spicy coriander with a suggestion of ginger emerging on mid-palate. Finishes with a touch of spirity heat.