There is Vinho Verde you think you know, and there are wines like this. From one of Vinho Verde's icons, this is Alvarinho from the Monção and Melgaço subregion, regarded as a "cru" in quality. For this wine, the vineyards sidle the river and are blanketed with stones. Wild pear is slicked with salts, meadow herbs and scented with a perfume of wild mint. The form is greyhound-sleek and the finish lingers with savoury allure. Best with some breathing space.