2019 Summer Spirits Roundup
Gin
About a decade ago, I wrote a piece talking about how there was a gin renaissance happening. Well, guess what? It’s still happening. It seems every time I blink, a new gin appears. Suntory’s foray into this market, Roku Gin, launched at Toronto’s Akira Back restaurant in conjunction with Haku Vodka. Using a selection of botanicals – including six specifically from Japan (sancho pepper, yazu peel, etc.) – as well as some of the more traditional (juniper, coriander and the like), the result is a uniquely aromatic gin (fragrant citrus/yazu, rosewater, cherry blossom) with a distinctive fruity, earthy, peppery palate. Definitely worth trying.
Another unique gin new to the Canadian market is Nordés Gin from the Galicia region of Spain. Unique in that its base spirit is actually distilled from Albariño grapes (of Rais Baixas fame). The botanicals include six that are native to Galicia (including glasswort and lemon verbena) rounded out by the usual suspects. Find my tasting note here.
If you prefer a more “traditional” style, consider Greenall’s “The Original” London Dry Gin. With a reputation dating back to 1761, Greenall’s incorporates eight botanicals sourced from around the world (Tuscan juniper, Moroccan coriander, Currently crafted by Joanne Moore – one of the world’s first, and best, female gin masters – this gin emphasizes flavour and finesse, playing down the harsh, alcohol bite associated with some other gins. Juniper, citrus flavours and a velvety mouthfeel courtesy of a 100 percent British wheat base.
The pink (flavoured) gin category has been taking off as of late. Gin expert and Master Distiller for Beefeater Gin, Desmond Payne, landed in Toronto this spring to launch Beefeater Pink Gin. “Flavoured gin is an interesting concept,” he mused. “I mean, aren’t all gins flavoured to begin with?” My thoughts exactly. So why all the hubbub over pink (strawberry) gin? “I don’t know,” was Payne’s honest answer. Nonetheless, the market is there, so you might as well service it. Beefeater Pink Gin is rather pleasant stuff. Based on the classic Beefeater London Dry gin recipe, the additional natural strawberry infusion sits in nicely with the rest of the botanicals, resulting in balanced, well-integrated strawberry gin that isn’t cloying or confectionary. Sources tell me blueberry gin will be the next hot number.