Varichon & Clerc Privilège Blanc de Blancs NV
Editor Rating
- Rated 4 stars
- Excellent
- Seyssel, Savoie, France
- Reviewed by: Treve Ring
- Published on: May 11, 2018
- Last modified: May 11, 2018
Review Summary:
The official proclamation of the small AOC Seyssel in 1973 (only 220 acres under vine) was the first sparkling wine AOC in France after Champagne. This was très bon for Varichon & Clerc. Winemaking in Seyssel is recorded for the first time in the 12th century (1145) and further developed under the monks from the 14th century onward and where Varichon & Clerc was later established in 1901, making them one of the region’s oldest and most important wine houses making Traditional Method fizz. They were purchased by the Boisset family in the 1990s. This is a blend of Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Chenin, Chardonnay and Jacquère, aged for 15 months on the lees and given a dosage of 12 g/l. Though Brut, the sugar sticks out here, first on the nose (fruit loops) and then on the palate, slapping candied peach, light toast, dried mango on a sharp, crunchy palate. Though acidity is high, intention is valid and the framework is good, this falls a bit on the bittersweet orange finish. I'd love to see some of their drier fizz, where the fruit isn't jockeying for position with the RS. Best enjoyed with a good chill.