Arinto is one of my favourite underdog grapes of northern Portugal: lemony, herbal, marine and lean. Here it shines in Lisbon, from an estate established in the 16th century. This is fermented cool in stainless steel, after which it spends 5 months on the lees to fill out the wine's thin frame. Light and fresh, with that hallmark herbal lemon and pithy grapefruit pervading the linear form. Sea salts season the brisk finish. A fruitier, livelier choice than Chablis, and just as at home with oysters or spot prawns.