Not your typical Kiwi savvy, starting with the fact that this comes from a gloried vineyard in Bendigo, Central Otago. Whole-bunch pressed, this is partially fermented in stainless with the remainder fermented wild in older French oak barrels. The oxidative handling lends a reductive, flinty note more common in Chardonnay. Broken stones, wild herbs, flake sea salt, earthy white asparagus and grilled fennel throughout, with taut, lemon-pith acidity lacing the whole and tangerine, gooseberry and perfumed passion fruit reminding us of the grape. An undercurrent of phenolic grip finishes with stoniness. Unique and characterful, and worth seeking out.
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