Floral violets and grippy, equally determined and nonchalant, welcoming and restrained, this dichotomous wine from Christoph Kensal, who purchased the property in 1998, is alluring. No inputs or outputs other than a touch of sulphur, he makes wines to reflect this special site in northern Piedmont. This is 40% Nebbiolo, 40% Croatina and 10% other indigenous grapes from 80-100-year-old vines trained in the ancient maggiorina system, where three vines are directed upwards in the four points of the compass to form a goblet. These vines are located on high altitude, volcanic and south sloping vineyards between 400 m and 450 m. Bright purple and blue fruit leads a vibrant, brisk palate, elegant and gossamer in form, and refreshing with white pepper on the finish. Tannins are fine but bamboo firm, housing diaphanous persistence on the mid palate. Lovely elegance and drinking well now, especially with truffled or wild mushroom dishes.