The idiosyncratic winemaker plants his vines very densely (6,600 per hectare) and matures his wine in unique cigar-shaped barrels to administer just the right touch of oak. Particularly when made from a great year like 2009, the result is a very deeply coloured, complex potion scented like a raspberry pie, with dates, raisins and Merlot herbs and spices. The fruit still tastes fresh at the moment, and some remaining tannins still provide structure, but this should be enjoyed in the next couple of years.
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