Heidi Schröck Furmint 2013
- Rated 4.5 stars
- Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, Bergland Österreich
- Reviewed by: Treve Ring
- Published on: November 23, 2017
- Last modified: November 23, 2017
Furmint is a beautiful thing, and Heidi Schröck, a leading light of Austrian low-interventionist winemaking, is a terroir transmitter for this buzzing, understated, nonchalent and chic grape. Based in Burgenland, Schröck took over her family’s 10 acres in the village of Rust in 1983, where she quickly started turning out idiosyncratic wines like this from their mica slate, limestone and sandy loam soils. Their south-facing vineyards shade the softly rolling hills around Lake Neusiedl, forming a sort of natural amphitheatre. Nervy and electric, with chamomile scenting ample salts, medicinal lemon, flax, smoked stones, meadow grasses and green apple crispness. A slick of honeyed lees softens the stony base and hints at the age of this wine, one that is entirely not about the fruit. An intellectual stunner now.