Gut Oggau Atanasius 2015
- Rated 4 stars
- Reviewed by: Treve Ring
- Published on: August 17, 2018
- Last modified: August 17, 2018
Gut Oggau is one of the exciting darlings of the natural wine movement. Based in the small town of Oggau in Burgenland, Austria, the project was started by Eduard and Stephanie Tscheppe in 2007. The couple took over a 17th century winery that had been abandoned for 20 years, renovated it (including its 200-year-old screw press) and renewed the vineyards, which had benefitted from two decades of a chemical-free life. They practice biodynamically and are Demeter certified. Each of their small-lot wines have a distinct personality, so they've come up with an entire family tree of intertwining stories and characters, faced with striking label sketches by local artist Jung von Matt. The labels depict the human face of each wine and, remarkably, each ages and matures with each vintage. Atanasius is one of the children, a generation of wines meant to be lighter, fun and fresh. His is a blend of gravels and limestone, single plot and field blend 35-year-old Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, fermented in large-format old wood where it remained on skins for 3 weeks. Post ferment, the wine stays in the same vessels for 1 year with no sulphur until bottling unfined and unfiltered. Tight herbal raspberry, plum, blackcurrants on a finely dusty palate, lined with worn leather and housed with light gritty tannins. There's a perfumed wild raspberry that clings onto the drying finish. Honest, chillable, chuggable.