Classic McLaren Vale GSM, but very modern-hued. Generous leather, dusky plum and black liquorice, seasoned with a salt wash and dark chocolate cherry and kept fresh with a stream of acidity. This year's is a blend of 45/40/15 GSM, sourced from Dry Creek, Pappas and Redwind vineyards, all in the Sellicks foothills. Crushed and destemmed, this went into old oak hogsheads, with the Mataro on skins for an extra 10 days after primary fermentation. Grippy, fine, firm tannins work to hold the ample, juicy fruit in check. Drinking well now and for short term. Fire up the barbie.