This pale pink fizz from the Loire is traditional method Cabernet Franc from 20- to 30-year-old vines. Crisp and dry, the grape's herbal bramble peeks through, though tight, racy acidity, subtle pink florals, pink grapefruit and a thin cushion of Bing cherry-fruit carry this bright, nimble brut. A nice riff of salted herbs closes off the tight finish. Pass the tuna belly or salmon sashimi.
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