Alpha Box & Dice Golden Mullet Fury Semillon/Viognier 2015
- Rated 4 stars
- McLaren Vale
- Reviewed by: Treve Ring
- Published on: August 14, 2018
- Last modified: August 15, 2018
The Semillon and Viognier, which come off a shared plot of sand over clay at McLaren Vale's Connor’s Farm, were co-fermented and spent 10 days on the skins together before inoculation and fermentation. Not common kin, these two grapes are working on the like-complements-like theory. Semillon's honeyed waxy richness is blended into Viognier's floral lush richness, resulting in a wine that is — well — super rich, waxy and floral. BUT, and it's a big but, this comes with the orange-wine texture that comes from 10 days on the skins. Post ferment, this spent 18 months in oak, 70% neutral. A pierce of tangerine oil strides forward of medicinal orange, lemon pith, quince paste, ample earthy lees, white pepper, heaps of spices. They call this wine "the mullet." You're either all in, or out. With this wine, I've gone back and forth over an evening of tasting; I do not believe in the faux-mullet. This could use a sharper focus in future but is drinking well now with airtime and an evening of tasting ahead.