This lovely, very distinctive white wine is made from Assyrtiko, together with another native Greek variety, Aidani. The unique expression is derived from the island’s volcanic soil. Shows scents of exotic fruits, citrus and elusive floral overtones with expansive sensations of green and citrus fruit, herb and smoky mineral in the mouth. Everything is pulled into balance with crisp, zesty acidity on the finish.
Deep ruby in colour with a slightly orange rim, a nose of red berries, clove and forest floor; full-bodied with a cedary note and dusty tannins. It reminds me of a Barbaresco.
There is more to Greek wine than Retsina. Though they have international varieties planted for their red wines, the more interesting are the local grapes. Cavino Grande Reserve Nemea 2006 is made from Agiorgitiko grape (also known as St George). Deep ruby colour and a nose of tobacco leaf, cedar and cherries. It is an easy-drinking wine with a sweet cherry flavour that finishes dry and savoury with ripe tannins.
This blend of Assyrtiko, Aidani and Athiri, from the sun-drenched paradise known as Santorini, flatters with a perfume of peach, pear, white flowers, lime, white pepper and mineral. The medium body, refreshing acidity and great length makes for a perfect pairing with grilled kalamari served on a shaved fennel, orange and olive oil salad.
Diaporos is a blend of Xinomavro and Syrah. Even though it is a concentrated offering, Xinomavro’s tannins present themselves with full force, necessitating some form of braised meat or medium-rare steak, so as to tame this bruiser. The bouquet is that of game, leather, cherries, tomato paste and olive tapanade. Drink over the next decade.
Antonopoulos produces one of Greece’s most profound Moschofileros. The pale water colour features a slight peach hue. The flowers, peach, honey and minerals on the nose are also echoed long on the aftertaste. Try with veal sweetbreads in a Dijon cream sauce or white pizza topped with smoked salmon and crème frâiche.
Santo is the only co-op on the island of Santorini, and by law, all growers are members. That being said, they are focused on quality rather than quantity. This wine speaks of the volcanic terroir of the island: huge salty minerals combine with green apple and meyer lemon. The depth and richness of the wine suggest a pairing with oven-roasted pork loin with artichokes or grilled octopus drizzled with herbs and olive oil.