This article originally appeared in the Spring/Summer 2023 print issue of Quench Magazine.
Tucked away under the south end of Champagne’s Aube border lies the Châtillonnais–the last viticultural area within the département of the Côte d’Or.
Most Burgundy wine aficionados know well the figurative wine region of the Côte d’Or – the area comprising many of the region’s most exalted vineyards–the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune. But on an administrative level, the Côte d’Or extends much farther.
Located approximately 130 km north of Beaune and 65 km east of Chablis with much farmland in between, the Châtillonnais feels like a bit of an island within Burgundy. However, its unofficial wine “capital,” the village of Molesme, is a mere 9 km from Les Riceys, one of the Côte des Bar’s most known Champagne villages. “Our history is so unique in all of Burgundy,” explains Paul Bouhélier, a dynamic young winemaker who has worked with Champagne De Sousa in Avize and Olivier Lamy in Saint-Aubin. “Our wines are stylistically connected to Champagne far more than much of Burgundy. But our spirits are Burgundian through-and-through.”
For a small viticultural area that comprises less than 350 hectares, the Châtillonnais has quite the history. It was cultivated with vines as early as 632 AD, and built up to a crescendo during the time of Robert de Molesme (c. 1029-1111). A highly influential monk, he established the Abbaye de Molesme before breaking away from the Benedictines to help form the Cistercian order, the Abbaye de Cîteaux and the Clos de Vougeot. Indeed, the Cistercian order was the backbone of the Côte d’Or’s viticulture for centuries. However, at the time, its wine borders did not have the same meaning as they do today.
Matthieu Dangin, a newcomer who arrived from the Côte des Bar in 2011 explains: “In the Middle Ages, Molesme was part of Champagne and Les Riceys was part of Burgundy, the opposite of today. So, for many years, the grapes grown, and wines made in the Châtillonnais were considered to be from Champagne.” Even when borders shifted following the revolution and vineyards grew to around 2,500 hectares, selling grapes to Champagne houses was a tradition that continued…until the Champagne Riots of 1910-11.
The early 20th century was not an easy one for the area. Following the catastrophic effects of phylloxera and consecutive disastrous growing seasons, Champagne houses began buying less expensive grapes from outside the region and even outside of France. With increasing poverty, local growers began voicing their discontent and riots broke out across the region. However, the “civil war” that was carried out extended beyond the growers and the wealthy Champagne houses–further debate erupted over the sub-regions and what qualified as “Champagne.”
To appease the growers’ fury, the French government began establishing pre-AOC (appellation d’origine controlée) measures by delimiting the viticultural zones allowed for the production of Champagne. The Aube as well as the Châtillonnais, despite their long histories providing grapes to the Champagne houses, were excluded. Protests continued, and eventually a compromise was reached. The Aube was re-instated, but the Châtillonnais remained an “outsider.”
By the 1930s, much of the AOC system was firmly in place. The Châtillonnais found itself without a home, outside of even a regional AOC zone. With no real market to which it could sell its grapes or wines, and the devastation of two World Wars, the region began uprooting its vineyards. By the 1950s, almost all of its vines were replaced with farms.
However, the 1970s and ‘80s saw a few passionate locals who believed in the region and its history, and they started to slowly revive its vineyards. The INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité), the organization that grants and oversees France’s AOC system, began researching its soils and the quality of its wines. By 1986, the Châtillonnais was allowed to make regional AOC wines from land within 23 villages, but with a unique caveat–its vineyards must be planted on slopes, a requirement that applies to no other regional wine area.
Since then, interest in the region has been mounting. “Only 10 years ago, there were 250 hectares with many growers selling to cooperatives. Today, not only are more people planting vinous roots here, but they are also making their own wine. This is a perfect place where young wine producers can start,” explains Dangin. “In Champagne, the cost of a planted hectare is around €1,000,000, but in the Châtillonnais, it is €80,000. That is 12 and a half times less.”
Within the last decade, other young Champagne producers have bought established vineyards or vineyard land, including the revered Cédric Bouchard of Roses de Jeanne; biodynamic trailblazer, Vincent Couche; and Jeanne Piollot, daughter of Robert Piollot and Marie Courtin. “In Champagne, my parents’ domaines are already well-established plus the Champagne AOC rules are so restrictive. But in the Châtillonnais, I can express myself and my vision, which is focused on wine with low or no added sulphur,” says Piollot.
Interest has also come from farther afield. Louis Bouillot, based in Nuits-St-Georges, about 150 km south, is Burgundy’s third largest producer of Crémant de Bourgogne. They recognized the Châtillonnais’ potential about 15 years ago. Bouillot’s viticultural manager, David Guichard, explains: “We first bought 13 hectares in 2008 and after this spring, we will own 43. We will technically be the largest vineyard owners in the Châtillonnais. We also buy a lot of grapes, but when you own your own vineyards, you have better control over your supply and the quality. We do that through our own viticulture choices. My raison d’être here is to rejuvenate and protect the soils, creating a much more ecological approach, which is becoming incredibly important, particularly with climate change.”
Advantageous cost and creative freedom are not the only attractions to the region. Its inherent quality also appeals. As Francis Rousseau from Domaine Rousseau explains: “My family came from the Côte des Bar to Molesme in the early 1980s. The soil here is the same Jurassic limestone as it is in the Côte des Bar, it is literally the same vein of Kimmeridgian. The soil is thinner though in Molesme and after about 20 cm, the roots hit roche mère or ‘mother rock.’ This creates a lot of tautness in my wines. There is a lot of quality and potential here.”
Though Jurassic limestone does seem to be the dominant geological trait in Molesme, Piollot asserts that her vineyard is red marl, though it too shares the shallow soils. She describes her wines as “rounder and fleshier” than what they produce in the Côte des Bar, which are more mineral. Bouhélier confirms that the soils can change depending on the location of one’s vines amongst the 23 villages.
Given its position, it is natural that 85% of its wines are sparkling, mostly Crémant de Bourgogne AOC, a wine that retains excellent value amongst Burgundy’s ever exploding price tags. They are vinified following the same method used in Champagne with most of the traditional varieties of Burgundy—Pinot Noir followed by Chardonnay and a smattering of Aligoté and Pinot Blanc. “Pinot Noir does well on the Jurassic limestone of Molesme. Our Chardonnay tends to prefer the deeper soils of Pothières, a neighboring village,” explains Guichard.
Bouhélier, whose family’s domaine history goes back to the 1980s, further illuminates. “When people first started replanting here, they planted Chardonnay. These are our oldest vines. But the area suffers from spring frosts – even more than the Côte des Bar – so people started replanting to Pinot Noir, a later budding variety. Plus, the Châtillonnais winemakers wanted to do what is done in the Aube.”
Like in Champagne, still wines are on the rise. “Climate change has helped this area like other septentrional regions,” explain Rousseau. “I train my vines for still wines like they do in the Côte de Nuits or Beaune, and my yields are much lower than those for Crémant to concentrate the fruit. I am really proud of how expressive our Pinots can be.”
Promoting the region has not been easy. Producers lament that up until a few years ago, the Châtillonnais was not on any Burgundian wine maps. “I realized that if I wanted to promote our region, wines, and domaine, I would have to make my own map,” states Bouhélier. “We are a bit of a detour from areas like Beaune, but more and more people are making their way up. Most of our production is sold in France and to people who visit us. My father created a wine museum in 1995, which helps explain the Châtillonnais’ unique story, and that has also helped draw interest. But people also seek us out by word-of-mouth or because they enjoyed our wines somewhere and are now coming directly to the source. We have many repeat customers as well.”
Newer producers like Dangin and Piollot have found more success in export markets. “When we arrived, most locals already had their favorite producers and were faithful to them, so we looked elsewhere,” states Dangin. “Of our total production, 85% is exported—we even have an importer in Ontario—though Denmark, the US, and Italy remain our strongest markets. We did not actually have much difficulty finding customers. Though it is changing, the French tend to be interested in only Champagne for sparkling wine. However, foreign markets are much more open-minded and willing to buy good wine, regardless of where it is from.”
What is next for Châtillonnais? “I would really like to be able to write ‘Crémant de Bourgogne du Châtillonnais’ on our labels,” says Rousseau. “Our Crémants are very distinctive and go to the core of our history. Plus, our soils are designed for them. You cannot compare a Crémant from the Châtillonnais with a regionally blended one or one from the Beaujolais, which is 250 km to the south. Our varieties are different and so is the climate.”
This is a sentiment echoed by many of its growers. “Having our region on our labels would add value to our wines, especially in export markets,” asserts Dangin. “It has been discussed, but I am not sure there is an application for it yet. We might need more history to proceed.”
But their future looks bright. Crémant de Bourgogne is the largest developing AOC in the region, catapulting an incredible 7,600% in sales over the last 40 years, and it’s still growing. However, at the moment, only around 3-4% actually comes uniquely from the Châtillonnais. “We still have around 1,000 hectares of approved vineyard land that has yet to be planted, so there is enormous potential,” Bouhélier states optimistically. I, for one, believe their patience, passion and pioneering spirit will pay off.
Châtillonnais Sparkling Wines
Louis Bouillot Grands Terroirs Les Lavots Extra Brut Crémant de Bourgogne AOC, 2017
Louis Bouillot produces multiple single-vineyard Crémants, though Les Lavots is the only one from the Châtillonnais. From a 3.5 ha parcel comprised of 57% Pinot Noir and 43% Chardonnay, its oldest vines date back to 1984. It is named after the ‘laves’ or broken up limestone slabs that lie on the soil’s surface. Opening up with a delicate nose of sweet orchard fruits, on the palate this 2017 continues with nuances of lemon zest and candied pineapple. A rounder style of Crémant, it should appeal to those who prefer a slightly soft er style.
Domaine Pierre Rousseau Cuvée R by Rousseau Brut Crémant de Bourgogne AOC, 2018
Francis produces four different Crémants and his Cuvée R is his top-of-the-line. Produced from 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir from vines that are grown on one parcel in Molesme, it reveals aromas of fresh grape, honeydew melon and marzipan before turning towards white pepper, gentle toast and leesy notes. Fresh and lifted yet vinous and deep. Quite a young Crémant still, this will no doubt be even more exciting in a few years’ time.
Domaine Bruno Dangin Prestige de Narcès Extra Brut Crémant de Bourgogne AOC, 2020
Matthieu’s Prestige cuvée is served by the glass at Eleven Madison Park in Manhattan alongside estates like Jacquesson. Based on one taste it is easy to see why. Produced from Pinot Noir vines planted in the 1970s, this 2020 offers a fine and chiseled palate with notes of sweet, succulent white fleshed fruit and gentle biscuit nuances. Only first-press juice was used for added elegance while vinification was done in seasoned oak barrels to create a creamier mouthfeel and more complexity. The result is seamless. A truly delicious and stylish wine with much lift and freshness.
Domaine Bouhélier Celtissime Extra Brut Crémant de Bourgogne AOC, NV
Named after an important Celtic period in the Châtillonnais’ history, Celtissme reflects a slightly more oxidative style of Crémant. Reminiscent of Egly-Ouriet, one of Paul’s inspirations, it is mostly comprised of 2015 with a portion of 2016 which is vinified and aged in a Châtillonnais oak barrel made by the Cavin family (also based in the region). Aromatic with notes of brioche, fresh bread yeast, pear tarte and cut hay, it is ample and lingering on the palate. An intriguing and unusual Crémant. 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir.
Domaine Bruno Dangin Cuvée Rosé Brut Crémant de Bourgogne AOC, 2020
Produced from 30-year-old Pinot Noir vines and fermented in older barrels, Matthieu makes this wine by pressing the fruit directly but will also add 7-8% red wine to give it a bit more color and depth of flavor. The result is an appealing combination of sweet raspberries, strawberries and cherries with additional notes of brioche and subtle nuances of vanilla. A finely tuned palate that offers a wonderful balance of fruit and a more savory feel. Finishes pure and fresh. A bright and juicy rosé that also lends a bit of seriousness.
Châtillonnais Still Wines
Domaine Bouhélier Chardonnay En Chemin Km 21.6 Bourgogne AOC, NV
A truly unique wine, Paul produces a still wine in the spirit of a Champenois ‘solera’ or a mixture of different vintages which are barrel aged. He calls it ‘En Chemin’ (‘on the path’) which represents his path as a winemaker. Produced with 50% Chardonnay from 2021 and the remainder from 6 older vintages, it reveals a complex nose of fresh lemon curd buttressed by notes of biscuit, fresh walnuts and caramel undertones. Young and fresh yet aged and mature. This could pair easily with scallops with beurre noisette. A delightful, distinctive wine.
Domaine Pierre Rousseau Pinot Noir Cuvée Symphonie Bourgogne AOC, 2018
Francis produces five different still wines and his Cuvée Symphonie is his top Pinot Noir. Hailing from the 2018 vintage, a year that was dry and warm, it offers an ample nose of black currants and small, sweet bramble fruits. Its firm acidity hints at its more northern origins, but it is nicely folded into a fleshy fruit palate that is nuanced with lingering subtle spice. Finishes sappy. It spends 10-12 months in oak barrels to give added complexity.
Originally from the Chicago area, Robin Kick MW currently lives in Lugano, Switzerland where she works as a freelance buying/export consultant, wine judge, educator and journalist. She changed career paths in 1998 when she left her teaching position at the Université de Nice to study wine. Robin has held a number of different positions including Wine Auction Specialist for Christie’s in Beverly Hills, California and Fine Wine Buyer for Goedhuis & Co., a London-based wine merchant with an award-winning Burgundy list. While in London, she studied at the Institute of Masters of Wine, graduating in 2014 following the successful completion of her dissertation, An Investigation of Whole Cluster Fermentation in Pinot Noir in the Côte d’Or. When she is not in Switzerland, she spends much of her time in the Côte d’Or or travelling and tasting through many of Italy’s wine regions.