Getting under the skin of a vintage can take time.
As initial reports described 2020 as very warm, I was expecting to be assaulted by overtly powerful and generous Barolos. Yet after trying hundreds of examples, I settled on gentle and seductive to characterize the year.
I remember Emanuele Coraglia, Technical Director of Barolo’s consortium summarizing the growing season. There was no mention of frost, hail or threatening rain at harvest. I kept thinking – where is the hook? He described a precocious start that was curbed by cool, rainy conditions late spring. While this encouraged downy mildew – which the Barolisti are quite accustomed to dealing with, the downpours served to replenished water reserves. It was indeed a very warm summer however without heat spikes. Furthermore, the occasional shower warded off hydric stress. Finally, though diurnal shifts in September weren’t dramatic, nighttime temperatures cooled down sufficiently. It all sounded very uneventful.
After further grilling of producers, I learned of spotty frost in April and hail around the villages of La Morra and Verduno in mid-June. Neither of these defined the vintage and only impacted quantity – not quality – for affected producers. Not even a couple of days of heavy rain in early October seemed to raise significant concerns. In some areas, producers had already picked as full ripeness was achieved prior to the downpour. And those who waited it out were rewarded with drying, clement weather afterwards.
“2020 was the last easy year,” asserts Alessandro Veglio at the Mauro Veglio estate. Indeed, every year since has seen undeniable challenges.
While an absence of extremes didn’t result in ordinary wines (I would never describe Barolo as such), it did yield rather friendly, balanced wines with lovely fruit and tannin ripeness. Nonetheless, I was struck by a pervading lightness of structure. As Veglio aptly describes, “2020 is a 2018 with broader shoulders.” Although the former has more substance than latter, I was periodically reminded of 2018 as I tasted through the 2020s. The devil is in the small details, I guess.
When I spoke to Martina Fiorino at Bruna Grimaldi, she pointed to thin skins, a higher juice to skin ratio and the decision to keep extractions gentle. Her family’s wines are emblematic of the charming drinkability of the vintage. I applaud those who respected the fruit they were given and didn’t try to push beyond that. Some 2020 Barolo have more natural power to them owing to site. However, it is not a forceful vintage. The best are elegantly assertive, with great depth of flavour and vibrancy.
Furthermore, most are already approachable. In an age of immediate gratification, this is good news. Who has a wine cellar these days anyway? For the few that do, 2020 is still worth buying. The most precocious will be best over the next five years, others will age gracefully for 10, even 15 years.
Perhaps the wines don’t have the tension or thrill of recent vintages like 2019, 2016 and 2013, but I still found plenty to excited me.
MGA THAT DESERVES ATTENTION
Short for Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (translated in English as ‘additional geographical mentions’), MGAs are legally defined subdistricts within Barolo. Out of a whopping 170 (181 if you include the village MGAs), it is difficult to identify just one that shone. That said, the rise of Ravera is impossible to ignore. Once deemed too cool to fully ripen Nebbiolo, this 130-hectare enclave has benefited from the warming climate and gained renown thanks to the Elvio Cogno estate. More recently, bottlings from Vietti and GD Vajra have intensified the spotlight on this MGA. And other promising contenders are waiting in the wings.
Abrigo Giovanni Barolo DOCG Ravera, 2020
This lesser-known estate has been crafting a Ravera MGA bottling since 2013 and a vertical tasting going back to 2016 demonstrated the positive evolution. The latest release, 2020 charms with exotic spice, hints of violet, red cherry and raspberry. Taut and fresh with sneaky precision, it allies chalky tannins with tangy acidity in a graceful package. Impossible to resist now.
Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG Ravera, 2020
Winemaker and owner Valter Fissore has introduced some whole bunches to help mitigate alcohol levels. In 2020 he incorporated up to 30%. It is a rather balsamic rendering with aromas of rosemary, thyme blossom and lavender wafting from the glass. Dark wild strawberry suffuses the palate then clingy tannins take hold. Fantastic sappy acidity leaves the mouth cleansed. Hold off on opening for another year or two.
GRANDEST OF CRUS
Let me be clear – Barolo does not have an official hierarchy of sites. Furthermore, while the region’s MGAs are often referred to as ‘cru’, this is not really accurate given the former statement. They are better described as lieux-dit (if you want to use French terminology). That said, Renato Ratti identified what were considered the region’s top zones with his 1976 Carta del Barolo. (Think Brunate, Cannubi and Cerequio.) In 2020, Rocche di Castiglione lives up to its legacy.
Monchiero Barolo DOCG Rocche di Castiglione, 2020
Heady scents of lavender, orange, licorice and mint captivate from the get-go. On the palate, a backdrop of strawberry and raspberry gives way to the wine’s mineral drive. Tannins are incredibly fine boned but layer up to give gracious structure. Juicy and delicious, this serenades rather than screams Rocche di Castiglione.
Brovia Barolo DOCG Rocche di Castiglione, 2020
Lovely fragrances of rose and lavender are interwoven with deeper, darker earthy accents. This is a striking demonstration of lightness with substance and flavour. Fleshy ripe peach and citrus zest pack the core lifted by crunchy acidity and the MGA’s signature minerality. Powdery tannins tug supplely and subtly. A stunning representation of Barolo’s modern era.
TOP COMUNE BOTTLING
Barolo’s 11 communes are entitled to their own MGAs provided that the fruit comes from plots within the named township. Think of this as a village-level Barolo. The best of these wines give a snapshot of the commune’s character as a whole (rather than a panorama of the entire denomination or a close up of one single site). Serralunga d’Alba is the most common but commune bottlings from other townships, like Monforte d’Alba are also on the rise.
Diego Conterno Barolo DOCG del Comune di Monforte d’Alba, 2020
Despite hailing solely from the Ginestra MGA rather than a blend of multiple MGAs within Monforte, this bottling embodies the broader personality of the township impeccably. Vibrant but not airy, concentrated without being too compact, it is self-assuredly structured with layers of forest fruit to pad. A fragrant spiciness melds with darker notes of black tea and truffles all held together with a powdery grasp.
BEST ‘CLASSIC’ BAROLO
An unofficial designation, ‘classico’ is typically used to describes a Barolo blended from diverse vineyards throughout the zone. It references how Barolo was originally made. Today, most producers’ ‘classic’ Barolo is the least expensive in their range with their single MGA Barolo sporting a higher price tag.
Luigi Oddero Barolo DOCG, 2020
From vineyard holdings in the townships of La Morra, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba, Luigi Oddero’s Barolo is an archetypal blend. Subtly beguiling, it hints at mint and pressed rose. Very juicy with a chalkiness to lend textural complexity. Still admirably tight but ultimately accessible.
THE UP-AND-COMER
Crissante Alessandria’s wineshave stood out enough times in blind tasting over recent years to warrant serious attention. Established in 1958, this is not a new winery. However, now firmly in the hands of the new generation – brothers Alberto and Luca, it is a name to seek out. Both the Capalot and La Morra Comune bottlings demonstrate the elegant assertiveness that characterizes the best of the 2020s. Prices are reasonable too.
Crissante Alessandria Barolo DOCG Capalot, 2020
Opening with sweet herbs and white pepper, this builds gradually with autumnal moodiness. The palate pulsates with excellent purity of dense red berries and vibrant acidity. Confidently extracted, tannins lend a welcome yet ultimately supple chew.
MOST IMPRESSIVE MAKE-OVER
While Barolo isn’t being flooded by investors (thankfully), there have been a couple of significant takeovers in recent years. The sale of Vietti spawned yet unfounded fears that the floodgates would open. One very positive acquisition has been that of the historic Borgogno estate by the Farinetti family (Eataly fame). Since completing winemaking studies in 2010, the young Andrea Farinetti has been at the helm. He has gone to significant lengths to understand the terroir of each of the vineyards and the MGA bottlings of Liste, Fossati and Cannubi reflect this. However, the straight up Barolo also benefits, particularly as Farinetti believes, “the great Barolos are found in the ‘classicos’.”
Borgogno Barolo DOCG, 2020
A blend mostly of Barolo MGAs (Liste, Fossati, Cannubi, Cannubi San Lorenzo and San Pietro with a dash of Annunziata which belongs to neighbouring town of La Morra. The nose is gorgeous and the epitome of Nebbiolo’s rose. There are also nuances of pepper, juniper and earth. Youthfully wild on the palate but very neatly balanced with zesty citrus, compact chalky tannins and lingering mineral finish.
VALUE PICKS
Budget and Barolo aren’t two words that generally go together. However, you can still find perfectly respectful and satisfying Barolo at reasonable prices relative to quality.
Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba, 2020
One of the most affordable and consistent wines of the denomination, Fontanafredda’s flagship bottling is made from organically grown, estate fruit all within the Serralunga village. The 2020 version is an intriguing juxtaposition of bright raspberry and strawberry with savoury earthy tones. Mellow tannins are mellow are properly dry and give a balanced framing grip.
Mauro Veglio Barolo DOCG, 2020
A ‘classic’ Barolo in the sense that 50% of the fruit hails from vineyards in La Morra with equal portions from Serralunga and Monforte to fill it out to appropriate midweight proportions. Scents of tobacco, leather and tea are joined by accents of sweet spice and vanilla on the palate. The gracious girdle of tannins is matched by lovely, lively energy. Very clean.
MONEY NO OBJECT
There is no shortage of top dollar Barolo as prices continue to rise. Some are more justified in their lofty outlay. At this level, I am looking for palpable breed and the raw emotions a single sip evokes.
Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo DOCG Bussia, 2020
A new bottling for Giuseppe Rinaldi, featuring organically grown, 40-plus-year old vines on the western facing slope of Bussia Sottana. Since a first taste in January, this has just started to come out of its shell hinting at all its of exotic floral potpourri glory. Haunting autumnal and alpine nuances intertwine. Finely powdered cocoa-like tannins are long and far-reaching building with stealthy power. This is equally profound, buoyant and finessed. One of the few 2020s that really needs more time – and will age for upwards of 15 years.
THREE FOR THE CELLAR
While 2020 is undoubtedly an immediately accessible vintage overall, there are definitely examples that beg cellaring. The three below could do with at least another year or two before attempted approach.
Vietti Barolo DOCG Lazzarito, 2020
Very polished with a slick overlay of candied cherry, sandalwood and sweet profuse spice. Almost painfully youthful, the palate is solidly constructed with firm, tactile tannins enveloping succulent plum depths. Despite needing time, this demonstrates integration and flexibility rather than rigidity.
Brezza Barolo DOCG Sarmassa, 2020
Aromas of medicinal alpine herbs, forest roots and lovage are distinct and precise. Taut and securely fastened, the palate is awash with dried raspberry. Sinewy in muscles though neither lean in body nor forceful in drive, this is dignified and quietly commands attention. Tannins are fine and sandy. Finishes with pressed rose.
Ettore Germano Barolo DOCG Cerretta, 2020
Seductively confident in expression, this leads with rhubarb, bay leaf and a hint of oak. Full but not overly vigorous – though its power does sneak up. A lifted freshness counters the density and lends a certain friendliness. Savoury iron notes permeate the palate then the finish unfolds with the most surprising white blossom.
SUSTAINABLE CHOICE
Ruggeri Corsini gets top marks for efforts to reduce the estate’s environmental impact. Besides switching to Albeisa’s lightest weight bottle (450 grams) when it was introduced in 2006, they treat cellar wastewater through low energy-use phyto-purification. Both solar thermal and photovoltaic panels have been installed to respectively reduce the need for gas for heating and produce electricity independently.
Ruggeri Corsini Barolo DOCG Bricco San Pietro, 2020
As for the wine, the latest release of Bricco San Pietro is very promising starting with intense cherry and licorice essence on the nose. Plush and concentrated yet still juicy and agile, the palate rings out with pure dark cherry and strawberry. Tannins are remarkably velvety.
photo credit: Michaela Morris
Michaela Morris is an international wine writer, educator and speaker based in Vancouver, Canada. She has worked in various capacities of the industry for over 25 years. Besides holding the Wine & Spirit Education Trust Diploma, Michaela is an Italian Wine Expert certified through Vinitaly International Academy (VIA) and leads seminars on Italian wine around the globe. Not surprisingly, her go-to cocktail is a negroni.