Lahmacun with Onion Salad
“Reprinted with permission from Turkuaz Kitchen: Traditional and Modern Dough Recipes for Sweet and Savory Bakes by Betül Tunç. Copyright © 2024 by Betül Tunç. Photographs copyright © 2024 by Betül Tunç and Gentl and Hyers. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York.”
My father was a dedicated small business owner who spent long hours working during the week. His only day off, Sunday, was devoted solely to family time, and he took charge of everything, including meals. A nostalgic summer Sunday ritual involved lahmacuns and Adana kebabs from my uncle’s restaurant, followed by a trip to the city’s summer fair. We’d feast together, enjoying these delicious meals and creating lasting memories. Now, every time I cook lahmacun, the rich aroma transports me back to those innocent days, making me feel like a gleeful five-year-old pretending to fall asleep in her father’s lap.
Lahmacun is a flatbread with a ground lamb topping filled with an abundance of vegetables. The thin dough is baked for a few minutes in a hot stone oven, then served fresh with onion salad on top, accompanied by Ayran (page 255), a Turkish yogurt drink, or turnip juice.
Serves 6
INGREDIENTS:
DOUGH
3 ¾ cups (490g) all-purpose flour, plus
more for dusting
1 ¼ cups (275g) water, at room temperature
2 tablespoons (28g) extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon (2g) granulated sugar
1 ½ teaspoons (9g) kosher salt
ONION SALAD
1 medium red onion, julienned
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon isot (urfa biber) pepper
2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
FOR SERVING
1 ½ lemons, cut into wedges for squeezing
3 Roma tomatoes, halved and sliced, for serving
LAMB FILLING
1 medium yellow onion, quartered
2 medium tomatoes, quartered
1 small red bell pepper, quartered
2 small green Anaheim peppers, quartered
2 garlic cloves, peeled 1 pound ground lamb
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon hot paprika
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons double-concentrated tomato paste
1 tablespoon mild Turkish red pepper paste
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons water, at room temperature
METHOD:
Make the dough: In a medium bowl, mound the flour and make a well. Add the water, olive oil, sugar, and salt to the well and knead for 2 to 3 minutes, until combined, shaping your hand like a claw to bring the ingredients together, mixing and periodically squeezing the dough. At this point, the dough will not be perfectly smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and perform the basic kneading technique (page 22) for an additional 4 to 5 minutes, until nice and smooth. Place back in the bowl and cover with plastic wrap again. Let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and roll the dough into a log. Using a sharp knife or bench scraper, divide it into 12 equal portions. Round each piece of dough into a smooth ball (see page 22). Toss the balls lightly in flour and place on a plate or baking sheet. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
Meanwhile, make the lamb filling: In a food processor, combine the onion, tomatoes, red bell peppers, Anaheim peppers, and garlic. Pulse until finely minced. (If your food processor is small, you can divide the ingredients in half and repeat the process.)
Transfer the minced vegetables to a medium bowl. Add the lamb, parsley, salt, red pepper flakes, hot paprika, black pepper, tomato paste, red pepper paste, olive oil, and water. Using your hands or a wooden spoon, mix the ingredients until combined very well. Cover with plastic wrap and keep in the fridge until ready to use.
Make the onion salad: In a small bowl, combine the red onion, parsley, isot pepper, olive oil, and salt. Mix to combine and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 500°F, with a baking steel on the middle rack, for at least 15 to 20 minutes.
Make the lahmacun: Transfer a ball of dough to a lightly floured work surface. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12-inch-long oval or 10-inch round. Place about 1⁄2 cup of the lamb filling in the middle of the dough. Using your hands or a spatula, spread and press the filling evenly over the top of the dough, leaving a 1⁄2-inch border around the edges.
Perform a water drop test (see page 172) to ensure the baking steel is properly heated. Using a pizza paddle, transfer the first lahmacun onto the baking steel. Turn the oven to a low broil and cook for 4 to 5 minutes while keeping an eye on it, turning once halfway through to cook evenly. Remove from the oven and place onto a cooling rack in a warm place. Repeat with each piece of dough. If after a few pieces, the bottom of the lahmacun begin to brown less quickly, reheat your baking steel and perform the water drop test to make sure it’s hot enough. Serve immediately and see first and second notes.
To serve: Squeeze lemon juice over the lahmacuns. Add the onion salad and tomato slices in the middle. Roll the lahmacun into a wrap.
Notes:
Q This is a two-person operation—having someone roll the lahmacun while someone else cooks, then trading off, ensures you’ll both get to eat lahmacun at peak deliciousness.
Q You can cook all the lahmacun at once and store stacked in a warm place until serving, but I much prefer to eat them fresh as soon as they
are cooked so the wrap is nice and crunchy. If you are stacking the lahmacun, place them meat-side together and dough sides together so the meat does not make the dough soggy.
Q If you do not have a baking steel, you can heat a cast-iron skillet on the stovetop over high heat, then do the water drop test (see page 172) to make sure it’s hot enough. Using a pizza paddle, transfer the lahmacun into the hot skillet. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes over medium heat until the dough is nice and golden. Transfer to a baking sheet and broil on low for 2 to 3 minutes.
Q Store cooked, cooled lahmacun in an airtight storage bag and keep in the fridge for 1 to 2 days. Before serving, heat on a hot skillet.
Q You can serve lahmacun with Acılı Ezme (page 255), a spicy Turkish relish, as a side.
Ayran
Makes 8 cups
2 cups whole-milk yogurt
½ cup full-fat sour cream
1 cup buttermilk
1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more if needed
3 cups cold water
Ice and fresh mint, for serving
In a pitcher, whisk together the yogurt, sour cream, buttermilk, and salt until smooth. Add the water and continue to whisk until foamy. Adjust salt to taste and store in the fridge until ready to serve. Serve with ice and fresh mint.
Quench Staff
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