Wines of Greece: Epirus
Epirus, in the northwestern tip of the country, is a cool-climate winegrowing region and its vineyards are extremely mountainous, fragmented and difficult to cultivate. It boasts a diverse range of wines made from unique, indigenous grape varieties that are planted in some of the highest vineyards in Greece. The Pindos Mountain Range cuts across the region and most of Epirus’s terrain lies above 700 m in altitude. As far as wine style is concerned, the wines, either reds or whites, share the same hallmark characteristics and are the ultimate essence of cool-climate viticulture. Light-bodied, with light-to moderate alcohol levels, vibrant fresh fruit and amazing freshness and drinkability.
The principal production of Epirus is concentrated around the prefecture of Ioannina. PDO Zitsa (ΠΟΠ Ζίτσα) is the only Protected Designation of Origin and it is situated at a mean altitude of 700 m above sea level on the western slopes of the Pindos range. Here, the native Debina grape is the only permitted grape variety under the PDO regulations and is preferably planted in well-exposed, south or southwest facing slopes which are critical to achieve ripeness and are moderated by the influence of the Ionian Sea. Still PDO Zitsa (ΠΟΠ Ζίτσα) wines are low in alcohol, crisp, with stylish lemony and green fruit aromas. PDO Zitsa (ΠΟΠ Ζίτσα) is one of the few places in Greece where there is a considerable production of sparkling and semi-sparkling wines. Sparkling PDO Zitsa (ΠΟΠ Ζίτσα) wines are made either with the traditional method or the tank-method.
PGI Metsovo (ΠΓΕ Μέτσοβο) is on the southeastern tip of Ioannina and is one of the coolest wine-growing areas of Greece. Vineyards are planted up to 1,000 m above sea level and the terrain is extremely rugged and steep. Local grape varieties such as Debina (W) and Vlahiko (R) as well as Cabernet Sauvignon and Gewurztraminer (Traminer) display cool-climate elegance and lovely pure aromatics. PGI Ioannina (ΠΓΕ Ιωάννινα) is a regional geographical indication with greater flexibility in styles and grape varieties and the generic PGI Epirus covers the winegrowing regions of the entire department.
Ionian Islands
The Ionian Islands form the western border of Greece just below the Adriatic Sea. The climate is lacking in extremes, and the maritime influence is of the utmost significance. The seven Ionian Islands are quite mountainous, very steep in places, with a more aggressive topography than the islands of the Aegean, leading to a wide variety of aspects, inclinations and soil fertilities. All these result in a diversity of terroirs and wine styles. The vast range of wines, however, is not just due to the fragmented terroir, but also to the large number of varieties cultivated. Some of them are very rare and almost exclusive to this area.
Kefalonia is the leading pioneer of the Ionian Islands, producing the greatest and most celebrated wines. The mountainous island hosts three PDO zones. PDO Robola of Kefalonia (ΠΟΠ Ρομπόλα Κεφαλληνίας) wines are produced from 100% Robola and develop a lemony mineral character with kicking acidity, depth and high extract. The amazing, extremely rocky, terroir climbs up to 800 m on the slopes of Mount Ainos. Some of the steepest vineyards are composed of terraces held in place by dry-stone walls. The other two PDOs of Kefalonia are exclusive to sweet wines. PDO Muscat of Cephalonia (ΠΟΠ Μοσχάτος Κεφαλληνίας) and PDO Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia (Μαυροδάφνη Κεφαλληνίας) are small in production terms, yet the wines are considered to be among the best in Greece. The wealth of grape varieties in Cephalonia is mind-blowing. The white Tsaousi brims with lemony and honeyed aromas, Moscatela displays a light Muscat-character and Goustolidi is a powerful white grape with honeyed aromas and light-tannins. All these grapes, as well as the increasingly dry versions of red Mavrodaphne, are labelled under the PGI Slopes of Ainos (ΠΓΕ Πλαγιές Αίνου) designation.
The island of Zakynthos is the birthplace of the traditional designation PGI Verdea of Zakynthos (ΠΓΕ Βερντέα Ζακύνθου). Traditionally, these multi-varietal white wines were oxidative and nutty in style. However, nowadays producers opt for a fresher and more fruity and spicy style, with or without oak-ageing. A number of varietally-labeled wines from rare grape varieties such as Avgoustiatis, Pavlos, and so on are produced under the PGI Zakynthos (ΠΓΕ Ζάκυνθος).
PGI Lefkada (ΠΓΕ Λευκάδα) favors the cultivation of the local Vertzami grape, which accounts for the largest percentage of vineyards. The wines are deeply-colored and tannic. PGI Corfu (ΠΓΕ Κέρκυρα), the largest of the Ionian islands, has a relatively small vineyard area. A number of local grape varieties such as the white Kakotrigis and the red Petrokorithos are sold under the geographical indication PGI Corfu (ΠΓΕ Κέρκυρα).