Besides the obvious ‘lockdown’ growing season that characterized all Northern Hemisphere regions, it’s difficult to put a finger on 2020 in Barbaresco.

Climatically, there wasn’t a specific incident or marked extreme to define the vintage – no frost, hailstorms, severe drought or untimely deluge. In the vineyard, growers found tranquility amidst the global mayhem. Consistent with current trends, the winter was dry – with little rain or snow to build water reserves. Spring began under the same unseasonably dry conditions. It wasn’t until May that the tide finally turned, with frequent downpours through to mid-June helping ward off water stress in the weeks that followed.

Summer was sunny and decidedly warm – certainly hotter than 2019. However, intermittent showers offset. By the end of July, growers were predicting an early harvest. Yet once again, Mother Nature smiled benevolently. The fresh August evenings and cooler temperatures in early September slowed ripening down to a leisurely pace. While slightly earlier than in 2019, harvest was soundly in October – which is typically considered ideal for Nebbiolo. Crucially, grapes reached both technical (sugar) and physiological ripeness without losing acidity.

Simone Allario Piazzo at Piazzo Comm. Armando compares 2020 to the highly touted 2016 vintage. “Both years were characterized by rather balanced climate conditions that translated into two years with great balance, aromatic richness and supported by an excellent tannin structure – though not excessive,” he explains. Monica Rocca at Albino Rocca also describes 2020 as balanced, though she references 2007, another warm and luminous year that saw even ripeness. “Like 2007, 2020 offers wines that are already approachable, pleasant from the start – and elegant,” she declares.

I sampled approximately 80 Barbaresco 2020 at the beginning of the year and came away charmed. The wines are distinguished by density, volume and generosity without over-ripeness.

It is difficult to find unripe tannins, and the wines shouldn’t take long to come around. Nevertheless, they have the structure and fruit for ageing. If I was to find a fault, I would say that some lack that extra thrill of tension. But overall, there are plenty of delightful, expressive wines to choose from.

The Barbaresco denomination is made up of four townships – Barbaresco which gives it its name, Neive, Treiso and a small part of Alba (specifically the hamlet of San Rocco Seno d’Elvio). The latter produces very little compared to the other three. Beyond that, it is difficult to generalize about the three main townships in 2020. Instead, it is specific Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGA) – or ‘cru’ in colloquial parlance – that demonstrate defining characteristics. In general, my top picks hail from the most highly regarded MGAs – Pora, Rabajà and Asili in Barbaresco, Cottà and Serraboella in Neive, and Pajorè and Rombone in Treiso.

It is also worth noting that most of the Barbaresco I tasted were MGA bottlings rather than blends of multiple crus. That said, the estate Barbarescos from Cortese Giuseppe, Giacosa Carlo, Castello di Verduno and Massolino are all well worth seeking out.

Finally, I have only included reviews for finished wines. However, cask samples from Marchesi di Gresy, Adriano Marco e Vittorio and Molino were very promising. I look forward to trying these when they are bottled.

All in all, the 2020 vintage boasts wines that are as accessible as they are age worthy – above all at Barbaresco’s still-accessible prices. It is a win for collectors, particularly those branching out to Italy for the first time.

BARBARESCO

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Chiarlo Michele Barbaresco DOCG Faset 2020

From the well-known Faset MGA, this is impressive indeed. Intense woodland notes of forest growth and berries meet heady hyacinth. Despite mouth filling volume, the palate is well-weighted and balanced by tangy, citrusy acidity. Tannins are assertive yet refined and distinctly chalky in texture. Long, mineral-dipped sour cherry finish.

Poderi Colla Barbaresco DOCG Roncaglie 2020

Roncaglie has long been recognized as a source of top-quality fruit in Barbaresco. Beppe Colla was able to purchase a large chunk of this 13-hectare MGA in the 1990s when land in the Langhe was still available and affordable. He compared the expression to the austere elegance of the Bussia MGA in Barolo. The 2020 has inklings of this but with the generosity of the vintage. Fresh herb, tobacco leaf and irony accents waft from the glass. The fruit is quite crunchy rather than plush but with satisfying succulence and chew. Zesty acidity and sweet ripe tannins are well parsed. Lingers with minty nuance.

Giacosa Carlo Barbaresco DOCG Montefico 2020

Not related to Bruno Giacosa and definitely not as famous, Carlo Giacosa has been making Barbaresco since the late 60s. The estate is small – just 5 hectares – but it is currently one of the most exciting ‘up-and-comers’ in the region. The 2020 Montefico is a fine example. Wonderfully proportioned, in is generously endowed with cherry and red currant while graceful tannins hold everything in place. Orange essence, forest floor and allspice accent the ripe fruit core and juicy acidity brings a fresh tanginess. The estate’s ‘classic’ Barbaresco is also worth getting your hands on.

Cortese Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Rabajà 2020

Among my top picks of Barbaresco’s 2020 vintage, Cortese Giuseppe’s Rabajà is the estate’s crowning jewel. The family boasts four hectares of prime south to southwest facing vineyards there. It comes into crystal clear focus with violets, dry earth, and tarragon infused raspberry. This is one of the more brooding 2020 showing tight tannins and a steely backbone that should confer 10-15 years of evolution in the cellar. It is finessed in its power and girth. Sweet citrus blossoms and savoury minerals reverberate on the finish.

Ca’ del Baio Barbaresco DOCG Asili 2020

The nose opens slowly with licorice, pepper and captivating truffle. Gratifying and flattering, this fills the mouth – though is broad in shape rather than round. Stony minerals titillate the palate. Finessed tannins finish firm as this tapers off with spice and mint. It is just about ready and will drink well for a dozen years.

Musso Barbaresco DOCG Pora 2020

Immediately engaging, Musso’s Pora exudes fragrances of rose and violet with juniper and pink peppercorn. The palate is equally perfumed and expressive where ripe, sunsoaked cherries burst with flavour. Grainy tannins provide textural drama, and there is a linear direction to the structure that lends gravity. This confident, comfortable in its skin Barbaresco should unfold graciously over the next 8 to 10 years.

RECOMMENDED

Cascina Morassino Barbaresco DOCG Ovello 2020

Cascina Morassino owns a respectable 3.5 hectares in Barbaresco’s largest MGA of Ovello. The family’s parcels are located on the eastern flank of the cru. The 2020 bottling speaks to the relatively cool microclimate in a warm vintage. There is a weightiness and ripeness to the dark sweet fruit core, but bright acidity and citrus notes offset and lend another dimension. Rich earth and purple flower accents add further intrigue. The tannins are large, grainy and in need of time. Finishes with a distinct herbal twist.

Giordano Luigi Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Asili 2020

From just half a hectare in the renowned MGA of Asili, the Giordano estate puts out this elegantly crafted Barbaresco. It is pale in colour and delicate in aromas – and yet not a fading flower. Reserved red summer berries and fragrant blossoms are eventually teased out. The palate is smart and focus. Lean rather than plush, it is decidedly linear and firm with sneaky stuffing on the backend. Another year or two in bottle should bring out more.

NEIVE

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Albino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG Cottà 2020

Undoubtedly one of the top names in Barbaresco, Albino Rocca consistently puts out stunning site specific Barbaresco. A contender for the vintage’s best in show, the Cottà is as gracious as it is intricate with vibrancy and purity for miles. Red cherry and raspberry mingle with rose and lavender as a mineral undertow laces through the whole. Silky tannins meet steely acidity in this long, sapid and succulent red. The finish is awash with blood orange, leaving the palate refreshed. Giving so much pleasure now and should continue to do so over the next 15-18 years.

Sottimano Barbaresco DOCG Cottà 2020

On par in quality with Albino Rocca’s Cottà, Sottimano’s version is denser, sturdier and in need of a bit of time. Made from 60 to 65-yearold vines, it offers impressive concentration and a gorgeous enveloping texture. Scents of cherry, cocoa, mint lead to dark berries on the palate – all lifted by a pomegranate tang. The tannins are chewy yet yielding. Barbaresco with a capital B.

Paitin di Pasquero Elia Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2020

I always find Paitin’s Barbaresco slow to open – and age. The 2020 will be no exception. With coaxing, dark floral accents of lavender and violet surface giving compelling contrast to earthy leather, tar and mushroom nuances. The palate is tight and structured with firm, imposing yet finesse tannins and plenty of substance to back these up. It hints at further intricacies with tobacco and mineral-like flavours. If you buy into stereotypes of Barolo and Barbaresco, you could easily mistake this for the former.

Massolino Barbaresco DOCG Albesani 2020

A new wine for Massolino as of the 2019 vintage made from rented vineyards. The nose soars with dark cherry and red rose but has earthy depths of moist soil and tar. Yet the palate is still daunting and folded in on itself. Dense chalky tannins are countered by bright frisky acidity. The throughline here is great purity, and the finish simply vibrates with pristine black raspberry.

Poderi e Cantine Oddero Barbaresco DOCG Gallina 2020

Though long established in Barolo for two centuries, the Oddero family makes one single Barbaresco from two hectares of rented vineyards in the renown MGA of Gallina. While ageing is in large 45-hectolitre oak casks, there is a youthful top note of wood spice and chocolate. This cedes to nuances of black raspberry, cherry, rose and lemon balm. The palate has volume but is underscored by crunchy, citrusy acidity. Long, confident tannins wrap around the sizable core. Everything is in place for a leisurely stint in the cellar.

Elvio Cogno Barbaresco DOCG Bordini 2020

This Barbaresco is a relatively new wine for the Cogno estate, which is rooted in the Novello commune of Barolo. It hails from a 2-hectare southwest facing parcel within the sprawling Bordini cru. It is characterized by winemaker Valter Fissore’s signature elegance. Gorgeous purity of rose meet spicy pepper and fresh turned soil. It builds stealthily with fine, silky tannins that embrace the red berry-soaked palate. A streamlined wine with lovely clarity.

RECOMMENDED

Fontanabianca Barbaresco DOCG Serraboella 2020

The young Matteo Pola started taking over winemaking at his family’s estate in 2016. He is ageing the wines for less time in wood than his father and using various techniques in the vineyards to curb sugar accumulation. With its elegance of proportion and freshness, the 2020 Serraboella is a testament to his work. Strawberry and sweet herb nuances pervade the nose and palate. Chiselled tannins hem in midweight fruit giving sinewy contour. Needs another year or two to reveal its full charms.

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina di Francone Marco Barbaresco DOCG Starderi 2020

An open-knit, expressive nose speaks of cinnamon, red cherry and vanilla with some leather bringing in a sombre hint. The palate is midweight and well put together. Soft, plush fruit is juicy through the core and tightened up by well-fastened, taut tannins. Sweet herbs, bitter roots and red berry prolong the finish.

Pelissero Pasquale Barbaresco DOCG Bricco San Giuliano 2020

Ornella Pelissero and her son Simone tend this modest 8-hectare property. The estate’s flagship Barbaresco hails from the top of the San Giuliano hill with a sunny, southwestern exposure. Hints of vanilla overlay red cherry with tar and tobacco in the background. Ripe yet firm, the savoury palate has stage presence without being overdone. A robust style with plenty of grainy tannins to shore it up.

TREISO

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Vigneti Luigi Oddero e Figli Barbaresco DOCG Rombone 2020

Rombone is considered a ‘lucky’ site. It tends to make good wines in both cool and hot vintages. It also is well-endowed with both aromas and tannins. In the hands of the Luigi Oddero estate the former express with such purity, opening immediately with strawberry, raspberry and bergamot. It packs in quite a bit on the palate. And, as for those tannins, they are dense, chalky and long-lasting. I’d wait a year or so to open this then drink until 2035.

Belcolle Barbaresco DOCG Pajorè 2020

Owned in large part by Gaja, Pajorè is regarded one of the finest MGA in the Barbaresco denomination. A few producers, like Belcolle make a single cru bottling that demonstrates its breed. The 2020 is very pretty with red summer fruit galore. Subtle background note of tobacco and mint add complexity. Midweight and light on its feet though not a pushover, this has hidden depths. The tannins are chalky and invigorate the palate. Finishes with appetizing bitter woodland herbs.

Piazzo comm. Armando Barbaresco DOCG Pajorè 2020

This mid-size estate with holdings in both Barolo and Barbaresco is now in the hands of fourth generation brothers Simone and Marco. They have modernized the winery and are crafting polished, sophisticated wines. The Pajorè starts with some fruit cake and oak spice then allows red berry purity to chime in. The palate is tight-knit and textural with chalky tannins providing plenty of support. Lots of concentration and depth for cellaring.

Nada Giuseppe Barbaresco DOCG Marcarini 2020

Winemaker Enrico Nada explains that Marcarini’s cool, eastern exposure gives a fresh expression driven more by fruit than powerful tannins. While the 2020 feels midweight at first, you soon realize that it is a fine balance of concentration and structure which makes this seem so light on its feet. Yet there is depth and detail, not to mention a stony core and layers of powdery tannins. Refreshingly delicious tart cranberry and red currants to finish. Mouth cleansing and long.

RECOMMENDED

Lodali Walter Barbaresco DOCG ‘Lorens’ 2020

While not declared on the label, Lodali’s Lorens comes from the Giacone cru from vineyards planted almost 60 years ago. With compact fruit, steely acidity and crisp, ironclad tannins, this wants a couple more years in the bottle but should unfurl enjoyably until the mid-2030s or so. Nuances of mint and alpine herbs bring complexity to the strawberry core. There is plenty lurking here.

Ada Nada Barbaresco DOCG Rombone ‘Elisa’ 2020

This emerges from a slightly diffused, sulphur haze at first to reveal attractive scents of strawberry and winter mint. The palate also takes time to express its potential. Mineral edged with upright powdery tannin, this is quite dense and reserved for now. Yet the succulent finish accented by cinnamon and nutmeg suggests more to come. Give it another year.