The Movia estate dates back to 1700, straddling 22 borderland ha of land, about half of which lie on the Italian side of the Goriška Brda (Collio) and the remainder in Slovenia (ZGP Brda). This iconic naturalist producer makes wines of place, not grape. There is a distinct and overt earthy swing to this layered, complexed and characterful Pinot Gris. Some are quick to call "cork" on this, but none is there. There is lots of other stuff to uncover however. Oxidative, sure, and alluringly so, this is harvested later than any contemporaries, wild-fermented in barrique, on lees, without racking, with no additives at all. Light honey, crabapples, honey, Seville orange, broken stones and medicinal, mint-threaded meadow herbs on the tight, textural, lingering and bracing finish. Not an easy wine; wild and unruled, and unapologetically so, yet one I found myself returning to this complete and balanced and interesting wine over 3 evenings in a row, each time uncovering more layers within.